Ali and Lay’s Mountaineering Blog

I was pleased with my new Wildthings climbing pack when trying it out for the first time in North Wales.

Particularly satisfying is the ingenious new configuration for securely carrying ice tools that protects the pick and the large front zipped pocket. Designed for climbers by climbers and hand made in New Hampshire this sack has the trade off between weight and durability just right for multi-day alpine routes.

Other notable features include - Composite VX-21 fabric (200 p.s.i. waterproof); 2 gear loops on padded, removable hip belt; compression straps; whistle-lock on sternum strap; hydration system compatible; crampon / essentials pocket; 2 haul points; contour-cut removable lid; roll up snow skirt.

Volume: 52 litres; Weight: 1.3kg

Day 2 and we head off for the Ogwen Valley for some more practice on the crags above Lyn Idwal.  This is familiar ground for Ali and I and some grade 1 scrambling terrain that we would normally tackle unroped.  However, the emphasis is in efficient use of the rope and moving together quickly yet safely with running belays over rock spikes – an essential alpine skill.  We also practice fixed belays using an Italian hitch and the odd nut placement.

When we top out on fairly level ground we again practice the Z hoist from yesterday – an excellent and, for me, a much needed refresher.  Over lunch we discuss our homework assignment and get some good tips from Simon.

The afternoon is spent protecting a descent with a final abseil.  Lee goes first and looks surprisingly at ease for his first time.  Andy provides backup protection on a safety line before it is his turn to abseil – electing to use an Italian hitch rather than the usual belay plate he finds it hard work as this method is much harder to control.  Ali and I follow in turn and then Simon makes it all look so easy.

We head back to PYB and Simon is kind enough to spend some time with Ali and I preparing a three day alternative to our planned first Chamonix trip which would take in the Swiss summits of La Luette and Pigne d’Arolla. Food for thought.

An excellent course that was spot on for what we needed.  Next stop the Alps!  Good luck to Andy and Lee – keep in touch guys and let us know how you get on.

If you are at a loose end after a day hillwalking or climbing in Snowdonia then why not pop into Plas y Brenin for an evening lecture?  The staff give illustrated lectures every Monday, Tuesday and Saturday evenings at 8pm and these are free, open to the public (you don’t have to be on a course) and there is no need to book in advance.  Just turn up, grab yourself a pint from the Snowdon bar and follow the horde into the lecture room next door.

We did just that and settled into our seats to listen to Neil Johnson recount the first successful, all British assent of Cerro Torre in Patagonia.

Walter Bonatti, the Italian born climber who set new standards in post-war Alpine climbing had declared Cerro Torre “impossible” and from the photos Neil displayed it was easy to see why.

However, in 1970, Bonatti’s countryman, Cesare Maestri climbed a route on the south-east side of the mountain, the “Compressor Route”, so-called because he used a petrol-driven air compressor weighing 70kg (yes 70kg!) to power a drill and place 350 bolts up a blank section of rock – thereby murdering the impossible.

Neil kept us spell bound for an hour and a half with his tale of repeating the route in 2005 but I came away with three enduring memories of the lecture.

Firstly the simplicity of life on an expedition – long periods of boredom interspaced with short periods of pure terror.  The normal day to day activities of life and decision making are stripped away and as Neil puts it you are left with:

move your hands, move your feet, 
move your hands, move your feet,
eat,
move your hands, move your feet,
move your hands, move your feet,
sleep

Secondly, climbing ethics – Maestri bolted the climb and even left the compressor, now rusting, roped to the blank vertical face 35m below the summit.  It is all too easy to sit in your armchair and criticise this approach but Neil describes the moment when he reaches it and, without hesitation, stands on it as a man made ledge – pure relief – “ethics are for the elite like Messner”

Finally, the horror as Neil dislodges a large chunk of ice from the compressor which falls onto two climbers below, knocking his boss unconscious and breaking the ribs of another.

A gripping, humorous and inspiring lecture.

You can read teammate, Steve Long’s account of the trip here