Ali and Lay’s Mountaineering Blog

Objective: Ascent of a gully on the north face of Ben Nevis

Only day 2 and I am suffering with heel blisters from my new boots - probably caused by having the laces too loose yesterday rather than any inherent fit problem.  We strapped them up as best we could and hope that they don’t get too much worse.

Today we head for “The Ben”, (Ben Nevis) the highest mountain in Britain.  We head up the recently improved path along the side of Allt a’ Mhuilinn stream.  Sweat is the enemy in winter so we have to force ourselves to keep the pace nice and slow.  Eventually the path terminates at the CIC hut and mountain rescue post (GR 167 722).  The hut was originally built in 1929 as a memorial to Charles Inglis Clark who died during the first world war but has since been upgraded to include a wind generator and solar panels but alas no toilet!

From outside the hut we peer into Coire Na Ciste and the semi circular amphitheatre of rock that rises from its head - welcome to the north face of Ben Nevis!  Well we came in search of winter experience and it looks like there is more here than we can handle.  Glad we have Clive to show us the ropes. We walk thoughtfully but purposefully up into the coire.

Pausing briefly to attach crampons we discuss the route.  Our objective is the easiest gully hereabouts - the unimaginatively named Number 4 Gully - a simple winter grade I snow plod which is currently hidden from view making us a little apprehensive.

As we round a corner the gully comes into view but is already chocked with climbers which will slow our pace considerably.  Clive suggests an alternative - it’s neighbour - Number 3 Gully - at Grade II a more serious proposition.  We discuss it and agree that whilst the overhanging cornice may force us to retreat we’ll have a crack at it!

We traverse the steep snow slope practicing kicking our steps with boot edges but unlike yesterday we do this now with crampons.  We zig zag up to the foot of the gully unroped. Ali is aware of, but trying her best to ignore, the exposure and is employing a no slip philosophy!  I’m feeling confident after yesterday’s self arrest practice but have a firm grip of my ice axe.

We stop to rope up as a four. Clive leading, then Lay, Ali and Jonathan.  Each of us kicking to reinforce the steps made by the previous person.  It feels good to be on the rope together both as a security measure and a symbol of our little team.

As we work our way up the right hand side of the gully the ground steepens and Clive is forced to cut out pigeon steps with his axe. Twenty metres from the top we dig in to secure ourselves while Clive continues up to inspect the cornice - in a flash he is over the top and fixing a belay. A tug on the rope and I knows its time to tackle the crux of the route.

The Ben is notorious for bad weather - in an average year its top is shrouded in cloud for over 300 days.  Today we emerge from Number 3 Gully into glorious sunshine. We’ve done it!

Exhilarated we walk to the summit feeling like part of an exclusive club of real mountaineers. Its been 24 years since I was last here with my dad.  We pause on the summit to watch climbers completing Kellett’s route (Grade VI***)